Under The Hammer
Vintage Live Antique Auctions
Going Once, Going Twice, Gone! A Beginner’s Guide to Buying Antique Clocks at Auction
There is an undeniable thrill to the auction room. The fast-paced chant of the auctioneer, the raise of a paddle, and the final crack of the gavel bring an adrenaline rush that you simply cannot get from a standard antique shop. For clock collectors, auctions are the absolute best place to find rare pieces, uncover hidden bargains, and build a world-class collection.
However, buying a delicate mechanical instrument at auction can be intimidating. Unlike a retail shop, there are no returns, no warranties, and the phrase “as is, where is” reigns supreme.
If you want to bid with confidence and avoid buying a costly “lemon,” here is your ultimate guide to buying antique clocks at public auction.
1. Master the Golden Rule: Attend the Viewing Days
Never bid on a clock based solely on a photograph in an online catalog. Pictures can easily hide warped wood, replaced gears, or hairline cracks in a porcelain dial.
Auction houses always hold public viewing days in the days leading up to the sale. Use this time to inspect your targets in person:
- Look Inside: Ask the porter to open the case. Look at the backplate of the movement. Does the maker’s stamp match the dial?
- Check the Movement: Look for heavy wear on the gear teeth or signs of amateur soldering repairs.
- Look for “Marriage” Clocks: A “marriage” is a clock cobbled together from mismatching parts—such as a Victorian movement stuffed into a reproduction case. These have very little collector value.
2. Request a Condition Report
If you absolutely cannot attend the auction in person, you must request a formal Condition Report from the auction house.
This is a free service where a specialist inspects the item for you. Email them well in advance and ask explicit questions:
- Is the movement complete, or are gears and springs missing?
- Are the original winding key and pendulum present?
- Is the clock currently in working order, or is it being sold as a decorative lot?
- Are there any signs of active woodworm or dry rot in the casing?
3. Calculate the True Cost (Beware of Fees)
The price you bid—known as the “hammer price”—is not the final amount you will pay. Auctions carry mandatory, non-negotiable fees that can shock a beginner.
Before you raise your paddle, calculate these extra costs into your budget:
- Buyer’s Premium: A percentage fee charged by the auction house on top of the hammer price. This typically ranges from 15% to 30%.
- VAT / Taxes: Depending on your region, local taxes may be applied to the buyer’s premium, the hammer price, or both.
- Online Bidding Fees: If you use a third-party platform (like LiveAuctioneers, Invaluable, or The Saleroom) to bid online, they often tack on an extra 3% to 5% convenience fee.
- Shipping and Transport: Clocks are heavy, fragile, and contain delicate pendulums. Professional packing and couriers can add significant costs to your purchase.
4. Set a Hard Limit and Stick to It
Auction fever is a very real psychological phenomenon. It is incredibly easy to get swept up in a competitive bidding war and overpay for a clock out of sheer stubbornness.
- Do your homework: Research past results for similar clocks to find the realistic market value.
- Write it down: Write your maximum absolute budget on a piece of paper before the lot comes up.
- Walk away: If the bidding passes your limit by even a single increment, drop your paddle. There will always be another clock at the next auction.